Top Tips to Find Hidden Treasures at Thrift Store From Expert

Finding a designer item in a thrift store can feel like striking gold—but how can you be sure it's the real deal? Cynthia Kennedy, personal fashion stylist and image consultant in San Diego, told Newsweek: "Spotting a fake designer piece at a thrift store can feel like a game of fashion detective, but once you know what to look for, it gets easier." Thrift store revenue was projected to have expanded at a compound annual growth rate of 4.5 percent to $14.2 billion over the past five years, with a rise of 1.4 percent in 2023, noted an August 2024 report by Research and Markets.

"As a result of growing consumer spending for most of the past five years and demand for methods for sustainable consumption, industry revenue has increased," the report said. Below, Kennedy shares her expert tips on how to differentiate authentic designer pieces from counterfeits when sifting through thrift stores.

Clothes

Kennedy said the first thing to check is the fabric. "Fabric doesn't lie. Designer clothes are made with high-quality fabrics. If it is coarse, rigid or overly synthetic, it is not real." The label is another major clue. "The tag should be neatly sewn, flat and designed in the right font for the brand. If the tag is misspelled or crooked, that's a dead giveaway," Kennedy said. Attention to detail in the construction of luxury clothing is key. "Pay attention to stitching and seams. Luxury brands do not cut corners in construction. Red flags are uneven seams, sloppy stitching or patterns that don't line up," she added. Branding details can also be an indicator of authenticity. "Some designers have holograms, special stitching or raised text on their tags. If something looks like it was cheaply printed or off-center, you should pass." One thrifter, @alexfbailey on YouTube, told Newsweek about a recent find at a Salvation Army in Toronto, Canada, where she came across an $80 shirt that appeared to be from the Burberry label, as well as a pair of $250 shoes that were said to be made by Chanel. However, "after taking a closer look, I had some doubts about their authenticity," she said. "The condition and sewing techniques made me question whether they were genuine, so I decided to pass on them."

Accessories

Kennedy emphasized that designer hardware should feel substantial. "Designer buckles, jewelry and hardware should look and feel solid. If it is made of ultra-lightweight or plastic, it's definitely a fake." Pattern symmetry is another detail to note. "The logos or prints need to be mirrored and positioned evenly. A slightly skewed or badly cut/positioned design is a telltale sign it's not real." For designer jewelry and belt buckles, Kennedy advised checking the engravings. "Engravings on designer jewelry and belt buckles must be sharp, deeply etched, nothing very shallow or barely visible logos."

Bags and Wallets

The material and hardware of a designer bag can be a quick giveaway. "Genuine bags feature strong, thick hardware, so, if the zippers, clasps, or buckles are flimsy or not very heavy, that should alert you. Engraving must be clear and sharp, not messy or dirty," Kennedy said. Lining is another indicator of authenticity. "Signature lining is common in luxury houses. Most likely you will feel that the material inside is cheap or looks totally different from authentic ones online." Serial numbers and date codes are crucial in determining a bag's authenticity. The fashion stylist said: "Most designer bags have serial numbers and/or date codes that are specific to the brand, as is the case with Louis Vuitton and Chanel items, which indicate a time and place of manufacturing, or a model and supplier batch number, as is the case with Gucci. "When considering the authenticity of these serial numbers, there are a number of factors to consider, such as font or whether the code corresponds to the correct era or year of manufacturing, and many other details. If it's not there, printed or embossed or looks off, then likely a fake," she added. Finally, Kennedy stressed the importance of checking the stitching. "Good quality bags have neat stitching. If you see that it's messy, crooked, or has loose threads, it's a bad sign," she said.

How to Spot a Real Designer Bag

Various luxury brands have key signature features that can help verify a bag's authenticity.

Louis Vuitton

Kennedy explained that Louis Vuitton's logo has specific details that counterfeiters often get wrong. "Louis Vuitton is well known for its particularities in font. Though the brand is known for its consistency when it comes to its logo, there are a few exceptions, like squared Os on vintage rivets, as opposed to the perfectly rounded Os featured on the leather-embossed logo itself. The Louis Vuitton logo is particular for a few reasons: perfectly rounded Os, an L with a short leg, and two very closely (almost touching) placed T's." Stitching on monogram bags is another detail to check. "The stitching on monogram bags is generally yellow because it is dyed with beeswax, which leaves a specific shade of yellow, close to a yellow mustard. On counterfeits, the color is almost always wrong, usually a highlighter shade of yellow instead." Kennedy also noted that Louis Vuitton recently switched from date codes to RFID microchips.

Chanel

Chanel's branding has remained consistent over the years. "Chanel has featured the same logo for decades with only slight updates over the years. Like Gucci, the C in Chanel appears as a perfect circle, and the logo always appears entirely capitalized. On vintage flaps, the width of a genuine Chanel logo is always 3.3cm. The stamp itself will be printed in the same color as the hardware." Kennedy advised inspecting the screws on Chanel hardware. "On top of the hardware itself, the screws or other fasteners used are an important indicator of authenticity. Chanel is a prime example of this. On the classic flap bag, excluding minis, the screw used to attach the backplate to the hardware must be fastened with flathead screws. Any other screw type is counterfeit."

Gucci

Kennedy pointed out Gucci's logo has remained largely unchanged since the 1980s. "Gucci has been using a consistent logo on its items since the late 1980s. The Gucci logo features rounded letters like the G and C that look like perfect circles with missing elements," she said, adding that it is "important to notice that there are small equal serifs on the font, and the left side of each letter is thicker than the right." Lastly, she noted that the "made in Italy" typography will always feature lowercase letters.

Prada

The font used in Prada logos is a crucial detail in spotting a fake. "The A's in Prada are particularly important when authenticating, the right side should be thicker than the left, and there is an overhanging serif. However, it is important to note that this feature is present on both the hardware and plate logos, but is omitted from the Prada font of the interior jacquard lining." Kennedy also pointed out changes in Prada's interior logo plaques. "On older items, the plaque reads 'Prada Milano' on two lines, or 'Prada Milano Made in Italy' on three lines. Newer plaques (after 1990) will read 'Prada Made in Italy' on two lines. If 'Made in Italy' is missing on the plaque, it will be found on a small interior fabric tag."

Red Flags That Scream Fake

Kennedy warned that price can be a major red flag. "If it seems way too cheap for what it is, there's a reason." She also advised being cautious of an abundance of designer items at a thrift store. "If a thrift store has racks full of designer labels, especially in all sizes and colors, be skeptical." Finally, Kennedy recommended verifying authenticity before making a purchase. "When in doubt, compare it to photos of the real thing online, or use an authentication service before you buy. And trust your gut—if something feels off, it probably is." Do you have any thrifting-related tips or stories to share? Let us know via life@newsweek.com and your story could be featured on Newsweek.